Discussion in ' Concentrates ' started by vapor33Feb 8, Log in or Sign up. FC Vaporizer Review Forum. What does SSTB mean?
The Best Vacuum Pump for BHO for Awesome BHO Everytime
See our glossary of acronyms. Messages: I must have watched 15 videos and read a bunch of threads and there is always negativity in every video and in every thread.
There is always someone who says that this is the wrong way to do it and you should be doing it like this. Does anyone know of the best way to really do it without a vacuum? I figured someone on this forum has a great method? Messages: 1, Location: a funny place called earth. Guess it has been mentioned before, but spraying directly into alcohol gets rid of the butane.
Then it is only a matter of evaping the alcohol using the biggest surface area possible. The material has to be spread out as thin as possible to facilitate easy evaping of the alcohol.
Be safe MileHighLifezdarkrom and 3 others like this. Messages: Location: Oregon. You should see a pretty dramatic interaction bubbling. At this point, you should prepare your stovetop to evap the mixture. I had 2 setups going, if you stagger pours you can keep the operation flowing smoothly.
I tried to keep the water below any real boil - just the bubbles that appear at the bottom of the pan. At this time, you also want to make sure your scraping setup is prepared. Take out 1 of the glasses from freezer and remove filter all the fats, etc will be visibe on filter. After totally clear and beaded, take a blade and 'smush' down all of the beads and return to heat for 20 min to get any last trapped impurities.1972 tv set
Once you figure out your timing, you can start a 2nd pyrex dish on a 2nd pot of water partway through the 1st 1 finishing. Now it's time to collect your goodies. Using individual blades to collect the oil, scrape pyrex from one end to the other. When blade is loaded, place on parchment paper to cool. This process is much easier to do if you keep the pyrex on heat to make the product more pliable.
Be careful not to lift and relower the blade while scraping as this will cause visual imperfections. I had a return of 14 grams off of a qp of trim. There is a pic of the finished product in 'share that dab stash'. It's the one that looks kinda like hashbrowns due to the individual scrapes. Snake PlisskenFeb 9, Snake Plissken - that is a pretty detailed process, I've read that winterization is the best. Yes it is. And yes you can if you want to winterize it.
I only do that with oils made for vaporglobe purposes e-cig with ceramic cup. Oils for dabbing I just evap the alcohol. Winterizing looses some terpenes and as such will affect flavor in a negative way in my experienceDiamond Mining is all about encouraging separation of cannabinoids from terpenes.
BHO Concentrate. Photo by Professor P of Dynasty Genetics. Shatter made from live resin has a higher terpene concentration than cured resin, which tends to be more susceptible to nucleation, creating terp sugar or budder after it has been packaged.
This was once seen as a liability, as it undermines the stability that consumers look for in a good shatter. Now that many cannabis consumers prefer the sugar consistency, extractors precrystallize their BHO. The biggest appeal of live resin is the elevated terpene content that leads to the physical separation associated with sauces and sugars. The only problem is that once the product separates, the increased terpene concentration is only temporary.
The sugar consistency is the result of solid cannabinoids separating from the liquid terpenes, lending a more robust aroma but resulting in rapid terpene loss through evaporation. My recent book, Beyond Buds, Next Generationfocuses on recrystallization methods for hydrocarbon extracts because the majority of commercially available recrystallized products are made using hydrocarbons.
However, all the well-established methods of recrystallization require the use of solvent of some kind. There are a variety of methods for producing a crystalline cannabis concentrate, including fractional distillation, but one of the simplest and most time-consuming involves little more than time and terpenes.
Diamonds by Harmony Extracts. Diamond Mining can be done with cured resin, but live resin more readily lends itself to the process. As with all extraction, starting material is the key to everything that follows, and there are no short cuts or workarounds when it comes to this step — get the loudest, most potent cannabis available.
Each strain has idiosyncratic qualities when it comes to resin stability, crystallization potential, and so on, and most of extraction is science, but this is one of those areas where it becomes something of an art form. Selecting the strain that best suits the desired end product is all about trial and error. The process starts the same way all BHO products do — with butane extraction. This will off-gas most, but not all, of the residual solvent. The resin is now placed into containers where it is left to separate for two to three weeks.
During that time cannabinoid crystals start to form on the bottom of the container as the solids separate from the terpenes, forming a semiviscous liquid layer on top. If possible, separate the liquid layer from the crystals and purge them separately. The terpene layer will be more or less liquid, making it fairly easy to pour off.
This allows for a slightly longer purge on the crystals, roughly 72 hours, versus 60 or so for the terp sauce. If for some reason your layers are difficult to separate, the entire batch can be purged together, but it should still be purged for less time than a shatter; shatter is generally purged for at least hours, but with Diamond Mining, the resin has already been partially purged and has also been off-gassing in the container for weeks.
Once the purge is complete, the liquid and solid products are recombined and packaged, preferably in a UV-proof container to slow the loss of terpenes. The natural separation of cannabinoids and terpenes employed in this process are pronounced but not total.It can be extracted from fresh material or from cured material as a Concrete or an Oleoresin. A concrete or an oleoresin that has been winterized to remove the waxes, lipids, and fats, is known as an Absolute. Butane Honey Oil extraction refers to the method used to extract the essential oils from cannabis, and there are multiple theories on the best way to accomplish this, as well as what material is best to use.
Perhaps the first question is why use a BHO technique to extract the resins, instead of just boiling the material in alcohol to get the greatest amount of extracted material? Butane produces one of the cleanest extractions, albeit typically at a lower yield than polar alcohol. The second extraction will be more sedative and less heady. If you use a hand microscope, you can easily see when the trichome heads are gone and the stalks look like wet fur. Before we discuss how to extract the essential oils from cannabis, let us talk about the plant material to be used.
That immediately brings to mind the qualifying question, "What do you want to use it for? Oil that is to be vaporized, is normally treated differently than oil that is used orally or topically, because it doesn't need to be decarboxylated.
I will cover that issue under a separate thread on Decarboxylationso as to not clutter this post.Knottyy's Cynex Honeycomb BHO Video
Besides the cannabinoids, which are Di-Terpene alcohols and di-alcohols diolthere are also other terpenes in cannabis essential oils, which add to its smell, flavor, and medicinal entourage effect.
Some of these terpenes are highly aromatic alcohols, phenols, ketones, aldehydes, ethers, and esters, which are aromatic because they freely give off molecules at even ambient temperatures. Heating the plant material or the oil to decarboxylation temperatures will evaporate off most of these smaller aromatic Mono-Terpene and Sesqui-Terpene molecules, before the larger and heavier cannabis Di-Terpenes are affected.
Decarboxylated oil is smoother to the taste, but basically tastes like hash, with the floral undertones gone. Gone also are the medicinal and entourage effects from those terpenes. The price we pay for decarboxylation, so we shouldn't decarboxylate casually, and should first consider the end use before picking the process.
With water, comes water solubles, which includes chlorophyll and plant alkaloids, that detract from the taste, so the dance is to maintain the volatile terpenes, while studiously avoiding the water solubles.
Freezing the water is one method that works well, but it is important that the material be dry when it was frozen and that it is not exposed to high humidity while frozen, or ice will form over the trichomes, preventing their extraction. Another method is to simply remove most of the water. This will produce pristine extractions, but doesn't preserve the terpenes.
If the material is to be decarboxylated anyway, that is of little concern, because we will lose them anyway. We also have the issue of purging out the remaining butane, while preserving the terpenes. Again, there are a number of ways to do that, but I will address only a few of the ways that have worked for us here.
Those are light heat, high heat, and thin film vacuum. So, besides decarboxylation, what are some of the things to consider selecting a process and how should the plant material be prepared? In our experience, for best flavor and taste, freshest material works best less than 3 weeks oldwhether it is fresh frozen material or dried. Older cured material loses the nuances of the floral undertones and just tastes like hash. That means that the degree of drying and curing is also critical, if your goal is to maintain maximum terpene content.
Oil from buds is tastier than oil from even sugar trim, because most of the terpenes are produced by the buds, and that is where they are the most plentiful. Tasty is usually not a word used to describe oil from fan leaves or stems, though effective may be. The absolutely most flavorful BHO extract to me personally and to the test panels thus far, is fresh picked buds, that are immediately frozen to tie up the water, and extracted while still frozen.
It produces an oil that abounds in whimsical flavors darting about and the word most often used to describe it by panel members, was the word "fresh.
Next most flavorful, from a BHO standpoint, is material that has only been cured 5 to 7 days, and is at the small stem snap stage, where you might jar it if you were curing it to smoke.Terpenes are a valuable product captured the extraction process.
Not controlling temperatures through the extraction will cause you to lose terpenes.
DIAMOND MINING WITH LIVE RESIN : A step by step guide to the recrystallization process
There are four temperature parameters that need to be controlled in live resin extractions — fresh plant materials, butane, column, and purging temperatures. Live resin requires low temperatures to extract cannabinoids and terpenes and leave behind water and plant waxes.
Since dry ice and ethanol are required for almost every step, it makes sense to use it for flash freezing the plant material. This is done by filling vacuum bags with fresh plant material in a way that maximizes surface area. Once filled with plant material, the bags are filled with dried CO2 gas to purge out the humidity from the room.
The bags are vacuum sealed, dipped into a dry ice bath until fully frozen, and are then made ready to fill into a prechilled column. There are many ways to freeze plant material. Choose the one that works best for you.Spencer carbine serial number date
Control your butane temperature before it comes in contact with the plant material. The cooling capacity, or rate of cooling, is dependent on the size of the bath and the amount of dry ice added to it. Once cooled down, the liquid butane passes into your packed column and the extraction begins.
A commonly missed point is that the column must be frozen in the freezer prior to extraction. A problem with long soak times is that the frozen plant material can be warmed up if the column temperature is not controlled. After the cooling coil, butane temperature needs to be controlled at the column. Live resin extracts are low viscosity — the additional terpenes decrease the internal friction of the liquid. Pour the extract onto silicon mats, then scrape out the collection chamber with a silicon spatula and transfer it onto a second mat.
Two important components in any chemical reaction are temperature and time. Keep your purging conditions below room temperature and not much below 5C. This preserves terpenes, but is still above the boiling point of butane.
To make up for the lower temperature, increase the amount of time spent purging to 5 days. This is the simplest process to preserve your terpenes, and make your live resin runs worth while. Once the oil is up to your desired purging temperature, you can pull a full vacuum. Purging times vary from strain to strain, but you can follow the bubbles to see when your extract is purged. The purging has nearly completed when the major bubbles of butane stop forming — those bubbles are typically large and burst when they reach their maximum size.
At this point, you can dial in your process with residual solvent testing at your local laboratory to confirm when your extract is fully purged. Properly controlling temperatures of fresh plant materials, butane, column, and purging will improve your process.Discussion in ' Concentrates ' started by tepictotonJun 22, Log in or Sign up.
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Heat For Bho Purging
See our glossary of acronyms. BHO purge without vacuum?Buzzbreak bot
Messages: 1, Location: a funny place called earth. So i have a question Is it possible to purge BHO without a vacuum? Or Is there a 'cheap' alternative to getting a vacuum pomp and chamber? Kind of like a gettho set-up? I have been looking into brake bleeding sets, but don't know if they would do the trick?
Anybody has any experience with them? Messages: The best way to purge without a vacuum is to use a very accurate oven that can hold the temp at f - f, spread the Bho as thin as possible on parchment paper after your initial waterbath purge to create as much surface area as possible.
The oven works best because it keeps the top layer of bho viscous enough to let the butane bubble out and escape. If your oven isn't accurate enough to hold f, then the next best thing is to use a pancake griddle and a laser thermometer. The laser thermometer will allow you to accurately measure the temp of the bho, if it gets too hot lift the parchment paper right off of the griddle - it will cool down very fast because of the large surface area.
I would think that a hand pump wouldn't be able to pull a vacuum fast enough he bho would cool down as its expanding from the vacuum and you would end up with butane still left in your bho, which will more than likely become budder.
To be fair I have never used a hand pump to purge but the reason why people spend the money and get a two stage pump is because it pulls vacuum so fast.Classifieds New classifieds. Strains Latest reviews Search Strains. Social Social Home Social Explore. Search Search seeds. Search Advanced search….
Okay so im kinda new to this I guess. Just having trouble getting a nice shatter consistency, always come out crumble, which isn't really a problem I guess. Just want some shatter. I've tried dropping temps, but it just doesn't seem to be purging very well because of how hard it is.
What should I do? Maybe a better vacuum? What strain are you using? Stickysocks said:.
Best temp for purging shatter? Best poor man's heat source? Thread starter Eta Huinya Start date Jan 17, Eta Huinya New Member. As the header says, my first question is about purging temperatures. My desired end product is shatter with as few residual solvents as possible. I was originally taught that 90 deg F was the ideal purge temp for this, but during my research for a new heat source I have found many people who purge at temps of anywhere from deg F.
The second question stems from the first, and that is what have you found to be a good, stable low temp heat source to maintain that temp? My purge chamber is a 12" aluminum pot, my vac is one of the more powerful ones. In the past I was taught using a waterbed heating pad; great for low heat but terrible heat variance and stability.
My first thought is a silicone heating mat such as sold by brisk heat, but prices are above my current budget. They are similar in many ways to what I'm used to, but are they any good? I like the deg F temp range but uncertain about temp stability and control, anyone with input?Emd f9
I would like to get chamber down to 80 or less if possible just for some working room on the low end. Works with oil bath at least, have not tried it yet with sand, but am going to. I used to do multi day purges at aroun d 30C. Yesterday I purged a little puddle to completion in under 6 hours, at 45C.
No buddering or nothing at no point and depending on strain it will come out like glass. This one has a lot of monoterpenes and is a bit sappy although stable. Im never degassing longer than 24h thats for sure.
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